You don't get many more spectacular places to sail  into than the picture perfect town of Kotor in Montenegro. It's an impossibly  beautiful medieval town that sits at the end of the spectacular Kotor Fjord,  surrounded by steep grey mountains that contrast with the deep blues of the  waters. You think that you should be in Norway, rather than on the Adriatic.
Actually, the weather for our early morning sail-in  was quite Nordic too, as we were buffeted by some freezing blasts of winds  blowing down from the mountains. As we stood there shivering, it was strange to  think that a week ago, we were sweltering in Sharm El Sheikh. But, if you could  get out of the wind, the views were simply awesome – as we sailed serenely up  the fjord, making sharp turns to left and right and passing through narrow  channels, we saw little church-topped islands, the Venetian campaniles of the little  villages that line the fjord, and then, up ahead of us, the perfectly preserved  medieval jewel that is Kotor.
Strangely enough, on getting ashore, our first  mission was to get out of Kotor and try to get the bus to the little village of  Perast, about 8 miles away, around the fjord. We had a strange experience at  the bus station as we tried to buy our tickets. The lady wouldn't sell us  tickets because she said she didn't know when the bus was coming. Can you give  us some indication, we asked? "No, bus is late. Can come any time". Should we  wait? "No. Bus not coming soon." So, after pausing for 10 seconds, just as we  were walking away, she shouted, "Bus here. Get on now!". These Montenegrin  buses appear from nowhere!
But, peaceful Perast was well worth the journey.  There's nothing much there, just a small village of impressive large stone  houses that are a relic of the town's time when it was one of the shipping  centres of Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries. We went  to the small Maritime Museum to find out more, but came out none the wiser,  given the almost complete lack of labels on its exhibits. But, like everything  in this part of the world, the setting was the thing – with vistas like these,  you can see why so many Brits and Russians are buying up holiday homes around  the fjord.
So we returned to Kotor for lunch – sitting by that  fjord of course – and then undertook the definitive Kotor experience, climbing  the 1,300 steps up the steep hillside behind the town, following the line of  its ancient fortifications. As my thighs began to burn about a third of the way  up, I remembered (a bit too late) that last time I did the climb, I vowed never  to do it again.
But, the amazing views kept you going – looking  over the red-roof-tiled town of Kotor with the ship docked right next to it,  and down that long and beautiful fjord. It really is the most amazing setting  for a city. Thankfully, coming down was much easier than going up, but at the  end of it all my legs were shaking – I must get in better shape.
Next time I'm in Kotor, remind me that I don't need  to climb the walls!





